ROME
In these jittery times, when travelling might seem
to come down to a wing and a prayer, a few prayers as perks
with bed and breakfast can be a welcome extra.
So what if these B&Bs also have strict curfews
in this Eternal City? Motherly innkeepers, spick-and-span
bathrooms, some of the cheapest room rates in town, plus
an ambience of spirituality more than compensate for any
inconvenience.
We
feel very, very secure here, which is very important when
you are in a strange country, said Joan Shoti, a middle-aged
woman from Sydney, Australia, staying at Fraterna Domus,
a hotel run by nuns whose religious mission is hospitality.
The hotel is the most spotless place you can imagine,
but the most important thing is the caring you get from
these nuns, said Shoti.
Sister Milena, who helps run the 40-guest Fraterna Domus
inn a few blocks from Piazza Navona, said the Missionaries
of the Fraterna Domus (Latin for brotherly house)
was among the first to have lodgings for tourists and pilgrims.
Now
everybody does it, said Sister Milena. We carry
out the charisma of hospitality.
Many of the convents started opening their doors to paying
guests in the run-up to the Holy Year in 2000, when the
religious and millennium celebrations drew 25 million visitors
to Rome.
Worried about a shortage of hotel rooms, the government
offered low-cost mortgages and remodelling loans to convents
and monasteries.
Massimiliano Vavassori, a researcher for the Milan-based
Touring Club Italiano, which monitors tourist trends in
the country and publishes a guide to convent lodgings, said
there are no firm figures on how many convents are now in
the lodging business, or how much revenue the guests generate.
More
than 50 per cent of the religious places arent registered
as lodgings, Vavassori said. Sometimes, its
a case of a friend lending help. You can (just) leave an
offering since the hospitality is offered for charity, not
for business, he said in a telephone interview.
Sister Milena said the nuns occasionally take in desperate
travellers whom the police find wandering around Rome in
the night with nowhere to sleep.
Those guests arent charged, she said. But paying guests
at convents get a good deal in Rome, where modest hotels
can charge upward of US$190 a night for a double and hostels
are rare.
Catholics and non-Catholics alike are among the guests at
Fraterna Domus who pay US$104 a night for a room with twin
beds, private bathroom and fluffy towels emblazoned with
the convents name. A crucifix is affixed in each room.
Many convents also serve bargain-priced dinners, cooked
by nuns who ladle out pasta, soup and salad and pass around
carafes of wine for guests and for diners who walk in off
the street. Nuns clean the bathrooms and make the beds,
helping to keep costs down.
Dont look for baskets of complimentary toiletries
in these nunneries, and many of the rooms have no TV, wet
bars or even phones. But intangibles abound.
There
are pilgrims who need (human) contact, a word, said
Sister Martina, who helps direct Casa Mater Mundi, an 88-bed
hotel which opened in the Holy Year in a residential neighbourhood
in Rome.
Theres
a chapel. Some (guests) pray. Some even pray with us. Theres
apostolate in that, Sister Martina said. Im
not saying we preach, but when we respond to them, our response
is religious.
Sometimes
it happens that a person confides a problem in us. We invite
them to pray, or we pray for them, said the nun.
Sister Martina insisted that Holy Year financial breaks
didnt influence their decision to open the hotel,
which was once a convent that her order, the Sisters of
the Institute of Divine Love, purchased from Franciscan
nuns with dwindling members.
The place, with a garden shaded by leafy palm trees and
towering pines, was needed primarily for noviciates who
come from Peru and the Philippines to study, Sister Martina
said.
Mater Mundi has an 11 pm curfew, a little later than some
other convents, and some double beds, compared to the twin
beds many other convent hotels offer even to married couples.
Rev Gregory Apparcel, of Santa Susanna church, which administers
to the US Catholic community in Rome, said he hears some
complaints about curfews, but most people dont
care. They are dead tired by 9 pm after a day of pounding
the cobblestones of Rome.
Vavassori of Touring Club Italiano said that while modest
prices are the big attraction of religious lodgings in Rome,
convents and monasteries are popular in mountain and other
remote, panoramic places because they often are the only
lodging around for miles. If you go...
CONVENT ACCOMMODATIONS IN ITALY: Go to http://www.santasusanna.org
and click on Coming to Rome, where you can scroll down or
click through to lists of convents that take paying guests
in Rome, Assisi, Florence, San Gimingnano, San Giovanni
Rotondo and Venice. The Web site recommends faxing your
accommodation requests to the convents listed, as telephone
arrangements can be difficult due to language differences
and time zones (Italy is six hours ahead of New York). A
business called Monastery Stays http://www.monasterystays.com/
also lists monasteries and convents around Italy.
FRATERNA DOMIS: Via del Monte Brianza 62, Rome. Phone: 011-39-06-6880-2727.
Fax: 011-39-06-683-2691. Located between the Tiber and Piazza
Navona. Rates: US$64 per person for room with breakfast,
US$104 for a double room. All rooms have private baths.
Other meals are available at request.
CASA MATER MUNDI: http://web.tiscali.it/MaterMundi/. Via
Lorenzo Rocci 64, 00151, Rome. Phone: 011-39-06-6574-0406.
Fax: 011-39-06-6574-0089. Rates: double US$127, single US$83,
including breakfast.