This
column can be viewed as an extemporaneous meditation (after
all its T&T and me) on travel, arriving as it
does on the heels of Advent.
Its not just the seasonal style thats suggesting
journey; theres the loca musica Afro-Colombiana
Ive been soaking up since its unexpected arrival
at my breakfast table only days ago and then the impending
trip to St Lucia and Martinique .
First lets hit the Caribbean coastline of Colombia,
places like Cartagena, Baranquilla and then the virtually
unknown inland town of San Basilio de Palanque, the heart
of AfroColombia.
Cartagena has been hovering in my travel genes for years
since stumbling on this perfectly balanced name in a school-days
history book.
Baranquilla is of a more recent vintage; idly reading
round Gabriel Garcia Marquez, Vargas Llhossa and the Young
Turks of realismo fabuloso, I found the germs of a roman
a clef in the literary circle of South American writers
whose destinies took them at the same period to what sounds
like a decidedly ugly industrial port, in whose bars they
established the kind of salon the Paris Left Bank was
famous for in the mid-20th century.
I recall trying to pitch a story to a Florida editor about
the literary capitals of the Caribbean: Havana, Fort-de-France,
Port-of-Spain, Wilemstad and, of course, lets not
forget Baranquilla. Should I bother to mention my pitch
sank off Key West along with the jumbies of failed Haitian
and Cuban boat people?
Carnival, birthday and Christmas
San Basilio de Palenque I only heard rumours of in the
Big Fug a couple of years ago. Id got my hands on
an album by Batata Paulino Salgado, an Afro-Colombian
master drummer and Champeta monarch. Just the liner notes
Id read on a German labels Web site were enough
to get my kneecaps twitching and had me reaching for the
shark oil to prepare a waist stiffened by long, dark London
days.
Champeta, it seemed, was a fusion of some of my favourites:
Congolese soukous, Colombian cumbia, Haitian konpas, Nigerian
Afro-Pop (a la Fela Kuti) and Juju (think King Sinny Ade),
Ghanaian High Life, South American salsa, with soca, zouk
and meringue thrown into the bouyon (not really the word
I was searching forthe Hispanic version of callaloo).
When Batata hit the conservatory in leafy Forest Hill,
it was like carnival, birthday and Christmas all roll
into one. The Levi Rhythm Section went into overdrive:
we mashed up all the pots, several bottles and left severe
dents in my claves. But it was an explosion of pure sun
energy that had we dancing so and getting on.
Ever since those dismal days, brightened by Batatas
cask-cured voice, cardio rhythms and the compulsive, endless
melodies of soukous guitar weaving over accordion and
brass, Ive been searching for more Champeta. It
arrived less than 100 hours ago in the form of Voodoo
Love Inna Champeta Lan, courtesy the combined efforts
of Colombiafrica Orchestra and the Mystic Sound System.
The cover is enough to get you reaching for your shac
shac and purple strides: Viviano Torres, one of the three
featured San Basilio de Palenque vocalists, all dread
lox (sic) topped off with gold Baroque bouffant crown,
would put the Black Eyed Peas into the frumps shed. Nuff
said.
Since Voodoo Love reach, Ive bee luxuriating in
the warm waters of fluid guitars played by some of the
Congolese maestros like Diblo Dibala, Rigo Star, Dally
Kimoko and Guinea Sekou Diabate. There are gut- and heart-wrenching
vocals, Dominican Republic bachata style, blazing soca
brass and enough moves to take me through to next year.
But the music is really only one part of this story: the
other concerns resistance and history, a couple of favourite
topics. The history behind Champeta, is one were
familiar with: the Maroons of Jamaica, the Bush Negroes
of Suriname, the Garifuna of St Vincent and Belize. San
Basilio de Palenque, like Accompong or the Maroon villages
in the Amazon of Suriname, was a settlement established
by runaway slaves, who successfully kept Spanish forces
at bay, winning a measure of sovereignty, which one can
hear in the music their descendantsthe Palenquerosmade
to this day. Viva la confedercaion Criolista!
I know that my travels will take me to San Basilio, both
in my dreams and the kingdom of this world. But right
now Im ironing my jockeys and sox (sic) in preparation
for my hop north to Sent Lis and then on to Martnik. But
then you can read about all this next week. Ah hope allyuh
behave while Ah gorn.